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BERNHARD OTT - SPIEGEL Erste Lage (2015)

BERNHARD OTT - SPIEGEL Erste Lage

ROBERT PARKER Rating: (93-94)
Reviewed by Stephan Reinhardt
Issue Date 30th Jun 2016

The 2015 Feuersbrunner Spiegel 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner has an impressively pure, deep, intense and mineral bouquet with biscuit flavors. Sourced in two parts of the cru (of which Ott owns 8 hecatres but harvested just 7,000 liters) this Spiegel contains 4,000 liters from the loess part and 3,000 liters from the gravel soils. Beautiful biscuit and floral aromas on the nose. From a cool and windy site. Round and creamy on the palate this is a lush, intense and powerful but elegant Veltliner with a long and mineral finish. Barrel sample. To be bottled in July. Long and salty finish.

It was the deadline day of this issue (June 3) when I got the chance to taste the 2015s of "Mister Veltliner" Bernhard Ott, one of the leading wine estates in the Wagram region, if not the whole Danube valley. These wines, especially the grands crus or Erste Lage wines from Grüner Veltliner (indicated on the label as 1ÖTW), are the greatest wines Ott has bottled in roughly 20 years. They are sharp and precise, yet elegant with great transparency and mineral vitality, intertwined with a juicy, perfectly clear and ripe fruit. Namely the Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 1ÖTW from 60+-year-old vines is the finest Veltliner Bernhard Ott has ever made. I would even take the risk to bet that there has never been a greater wine produced in the Wagram. Whereas the three grands crus were still to be bottled, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Der Ott is a "super second" that includes the juice of all the top vineyards, but from younger, up to 45-year-old vines. It has never been better, although the 2014 was already a great Veltliner. And the new Gemischter Satz (which includes 20% of old vines Welschriesling) is a highly attractive new entry due to its aromatic bouquet and its crisp and piquant character.

Okay, vintage 2015 started problematic around Feuersbrunn, with great hail damages in early May reducing the yields partly dramatically. But in the end of the early harvest (between September 8/9 and October 12/13) the grapes had a concentrated and juicy taste and kept the acidity stunningly well for such a dry and warm year, finds Ott. For example, "the Engabrunner Stein was picked with 100° Oechsle and 8.3 grams of total acidity, Ott said, adding that “in the past ten years we have lost 1% of alcohol but gained one gram of acidity. This is surely the consequence of a decade of consequent biodynamic farming and vital soils.“ It was in 2006 when Ott went green respectively biodynamic.

Since the thick-skinned Veltliner grapes were perfectly healthy and had a very good acidity in 2015, Ott went an essential step forward in processing the grapes. These were crushed and pressed with the stems during four (Veltliner Vom Berg) and 18 hours (1ÖTW) and, in fact, there is no bitter tone in his wines, which are incomparable in their grip and mineral precision. With his 2015s, especially Der Ott and the grands crus Ott demonstrates impressively that wines from loess soils are not necessarily broad, opulent or creamy but can be very clear, bone dry, vibrantly fresh and sharp as a knife. If you love Meursault or German Riesling you should definitely try Bernhard Ott’s Grüner Veltliners from 2015. They are mind-blowing.

The Feuersbrunner Spiegel Erste Lage is composed of red gravel and loess which contributes a more classical Grüner Veltliner pepperiness and profile. The wine is marked with the signature amplified minerality you continually find at Ott and is the house’s classic representation of fine Wagram Grüner Veltliner.

Prijs: € 36,86
Kelderresten: 16 stuks
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L