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BERNHARD OTT - STEIN Erste Lage (2012)

BERNHARD OTT - STEIN Erste Lage

ROBERT PARKER Rating: 92
Reviewed by David Schildknecht
Issue Date 30th Apr 2014

The 2012 Gruner Veltliner Stein originates in gravel, loess and eroded gneiss terraces in Engabrunn at the edge of the Kamptal that are adjacent to Ott’s home vineyards of Feuersbrunn. The owner of these vines was so impressed watching Ott and his team apply themselves in their vineyards that she made him a sweetheart offer to farm them and vinify their fruit as though it were his own. (You might think this the stuff of fairy tale, but Brundlmayer’s old vines in Heiligenstein and Poller’s Frau Mayer vines were acquired in similar, if even less probable ways.) The sweet fruit that characterizes the present collection is, in this instance, accentuated, in part, it’s true, by 6 grams of residual sugar, to the point where I perceive a light confiture of quince and apricot, complemented by a suffusion of crushed stone and saliva-drawing mingling of oyster liquor. The succulent, resonant finish here is mouthwatering and next sip-compelling, although for now at least this opulent bottling misses quite the clarity and interactive complex the corresponding Spiegel. In line with the conviction of many if not most Austrian or German growers (albeit to my knowledge scientifically unfounded), Ott opines that the bit of sugar here will help the wine age. Taking no stand regarding the influence of residual sugar, I would anticipate rewarding return visits through at least 2025.

The Engabrunner Stein Erste Lage, rests on the border of Wagram and Kamptal, technically belonging to the Kamptal region. This wine is grown on soils of gneiss, chalk and loess, as well as red and yellow sands. The grapes are grown on old vines, the oldest of which were planted in 1957. The wine receives a 30 hour maceration on the skins which contributes to its intensity of mineralic expression. The Stein is now RESPEKT – biodynamic certified.

Prijs (vanaf 6 flessen): € 36,86 / fles

Eenheidsprijs: € 44,60


Kelderresten: 9 stuks
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L