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ZIEREISEN - Baden

ZIEREISEN - Baden

Land: Duitsland
Regio: Baden

Efringen ligt in Baden op een steenworp van Basel. Hier, in het zogeheten Markgräfler Land, bezit Hanspeter Ziereisen in de wijngaard Efringer Ölberg een aantal bijzondere percelen, echte “Filetstücke” (“Rhini”, “Schulen”, “Gestaad”, “Hard” of “Steingrüble”). Karakteristieke Gutedels (=Chasselas) en memorabele Spätburgunders (50% van de aanplant van dit 10-hectarebedrijf) ontstaan hier, in het diepe Zuiden van Duitsland. “Vor zehn Jahren wäre man noch in die Irrenanstalt gekommen, wenn man gesagt hätte, das wäre Rotwein aus dem Markgräflerland”, aldus Hanspeter. Het is dan ook niet verwonderlijk dat hij in 2007 in de Gault Millau Weinguide Deutschland werd uitgeroepen tot ‘Entdeckung des Jahres’. Maar helaas begrijpt niet iedereen de filosofie van deze man. Omdat ze “spontanvergoren” zijn, heel lang contact hebben met de zogenaamde “Feinhefe” en geen filtratie of klaring ondergaan, vond de Amtliche Prüfstelle zijn wijn a-typisch en mocht hij hem niet als Qualitätswein verkopen. Hanspeter besloot vanaf dat moment al zijn wijnen onder de geuzennaam “Deutscher Tafelwein” op de markt te brengen; mensen kunnen immers zelf wel beoordelen of je kwaliteit in het glas hebt of niet.

 

JANCIS ROBINSON
"Ziereisen and the Baden Landwein revolution"

Even when I take a break from German wine, I can't quite leave it alone, and when I recently spent a few days in Alsace, withdrawal symptoms drove me east across the border, marked by the river Rhine, for a quick trip to visit the Ziereisen estate at Efringen-Kirchen in the very south of Baden [about which Tam first wrote, on our old forum back in April 2006, expressing delight at the Syrah made by this asparagus farmer and carpenter turned winemaker - JR

Spending an afternoon chez Ziereisen is always a great educational experience as well as being thoroughly enjoyable. After our small party of four and a half Brits and half a German had been treated to a comprehensive tasting and inspection of the estate's impressive new underground barrique cellar, there was still more information to come.

 

Edeltraut Ziereisen (in the picture with her well-groomed husband Hanspeter) drew my attention to a new joint venture of (so far) 17 Baden growers which will not necessarily be welcomed with unbridled enthusiasm by other producers' associations. After a successful start in 2017, this new (loose) alliance held its second Badischer Landweinmarkt called 100 Prozent Landwein at Müllheim on 27 April 2018. As the term Landwein indicates, all partners in this venture subscribe to the idea of producing wines which do not have to adhere to the regulations and restraints of the German quality wine regime.

 

Originally the Deutscher Landwein category was introduced by the German wine law in 1982 as an answer to the French Vin de Pays, a basic tier just above table wine, or vin de table, with less stringent requirements than the second tier of Qualitätswein or the top tier Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (Kabinett, Spätlese and so on). Among other things, Landwein allows a wider choice of grape varieties, blending across the whole of the specified region, lower minimum alcohol, and chaptalisation is also allowed. However, all the wines have to be trocken (dry) or halbtrocken (off-dry) in style.

It can't be said that after its introduction the Landwein category became an unmitigated success, as the requirements of the higher tier of Qualitätswein were actually low enough for more than 95% of German wine production to qualify for it, and therefore most growers had no reason to use the new designation. Where it proved useful initially was when a producer wanted to produce wine from varieties such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc before they had been approved for Qualitätswein.

Eventually the Landwein designation became more important for a totally different reason. All Qualitätsweine have to be approved as being typical of their provenance and tradition by a tasting commission, usually made up of local growers and wine board inspectors.

Some of the most enterprising growers found their applications turned down because in the eyes of the commission their wines did not meet these criteria. One of the most common reasons for refusal was the use of barriques, which, according to the judgement of the officials, led to an unacceptable change of taste. In a nutshell the Landwein category became an escape option for innovative producers, just as Vin de France is today.

Today Hanspeter Ziereisen, Enderle & Moll, Sven Nieger and a growing number of like-minded growers are happy to declare all their wines as Landwein since, instead of being perceived as third rate, the designation has become a byword for exciting, individual, sometimes outright unconventional wines.

 

The (German) wine law-giver may not be concerned with growers who opt out of the quality wine regime, as after all it was the law that provided them with that opportunity. But it might be a little worrying for the association of top German growers the VDP, and its regional Baden chapter in particular, if more and more of the area's talented producers prefer to join forces in an alternative alliance. It is quite clear that Hanspeter Ziereisen is (quite happily) pulling this particular train, as most of the member estates of the Landwein syndicate were founded only a few years ago and still need the help of a big name like his to put their wines on the map.




ZIEREISEN - HEUGUMBER GUETEDEL 2016

ZIEREISEN - HEUGUMBER GUETEDEL 2016

Wijnjaar: 2016
Regio: Baden
Type: Witte wijn
Druif: , Guetedel (Chasselas).


Jancis Robinson score : 15Hanspeter Ziereisen, Heugumber Gutedel 2016 Badischer LandweinThe Heugumber is a thirst quencher without airs and graces. An inviting smell of stewed rhubarb and hay leads to ...

Prijs: € 9,25
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - WEISER BURGUNDER 2016

ZIEREISEN - WEISER BURGUNDER 2016

Wijnjaar: 2016
Regio: Baden
Type: Witte wijn
Druif: , Weiser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc).


Jancis Robinson score : 16Hanspeter Ziereisen Weissburgunder 2016 Badischer LandweinDiscreet aromas of melon and apple are supported in their refreshing fragrance by a hint of glacier mint. On the palate ...

Prijs: € 12,45
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - STEINGRÜBLE GUETDEL 2014

ZIEREISEN - STEINGRÜBLE GUETDEL 2014

Wijnjaar: 2014
Regio: Baden
Type: Witte wijn
Druif: , Guetedel (Chasselas).


Prijs: € 15,95
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - MUSBRUGGER PINOT GRIS 2014

ZIEREISEN - MUSBRUGGER PINOT GRIS 2014

Wijnjaar: 2014
Regio: Baden
Type: Witte wijn
Druif: Pinot Gris.


Prijs: € 21,90
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - TSCHUPPEN BLAUER SPATBURGUNDER 2014

ZIEREISEN - TSCHUPPEN BLAUER SPATBURGUNDER 2014

Wijnjaar: 2014
Regio: Baden
Type: Rode wijn
Druif: , Blauer Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).


Jancis Robinson score : 16,5Hanspeter Ziereisen, Tschuppen Spätburgunder 2014 Badischer LandweinAromas of mulberry and graphite demonstrate that in 2014 the Tschuppen sought its strength in a fine balance between fruit ...

Prijs: € 14,85
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - JASPIS Pinot Noir 2013

ZIEREISEN - JASPIS Pinot Noir 2013

Wijnjaar: 2013
Regio: Baden
Type: Rode wijn
Druif: , Pinot Noir.


Jancis Robinson score : 18,5Hanspeter Ziereisen, Jaspis Alte Reben Spätburgunder 2013 Badischer LandweinCan a fragrance be warm? Plums, blackberries and cherries marinated in brandy with a sprinkling of cinnamon would ...

Prijs: € 50,05
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - GESTAD Syrah 2013

ZIEREISEN - GESTAD Syrah 2013

Wijnjaar: 2013
Regio: Baden
Type: Rode wijn
Druif: , Syrah.


Prijs: € 25,85
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L

ZIEREISEN - JASPIS Syrah 2013

ZIEREISEN - JASPIS Syrah 2013

Wijnjaar: 2013
Regio: Baden
Type: Rode wijn
Druif: Syrah.


Prijs: € 55,00
Biowijn
Volume: 0.75 L