SCORE 89 POINTS Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, November 2009 By David Schildknecht

A 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling smells of lavender, lemon zest, and a hint of boxwood. Almost palpably stony though also marked by its lees on the palate, its combination of peach kernel, citrus oil, and pungent herbs renders this more austere than other Van Volxem bottlings of the vintage. There is impressive persistence here, and the promise of further rewarding visits over the next several years.

Except for three that don't taste dry, this year's van Volxem bottlings weigh in at between 11.5% and 12% alcohol, and range between 5 and 18 grams of residual sugar (none however labeled "trocken," in keeping not only with with proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski's penchant for judicious residual sugar, but also his admirable attempt to de-emphasize that term). Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. The top wines were as usual here not bottled until late summer. For details on the house style and Niewodniczanski's ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163.